This world-renowned spa on the northern edge of the Auvergne, in the
heart of Bourbon country, is noted for its sparkling waters, which reputedly
alleviate liver and stomach ailments. It looks much as it did a century ago,
when princes and industrial barons filled its rococo casino. (The casino you'll
visit today isn't the one that thrived during the spa's 19th-c. heyday. That
edifice, at 5 rue du Casino, now functions as a
